Will Rynearson
Sri Lanka on Three Wheels
Traveling around Sri Lanka by tuk-tuk proved to be an unforgettable experience.
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Once we arrived, a friend and I did what any sensible travelers would do – give a man we met on the internet several hundred dollars in return for renting his three-wheeled tuk-tuk and drive away, having only learned how to operate the motorized vehicle half an hour prior. In reality, it turned out to be one of the best decisions I have ever made while traveling; the incredible scenes that Sri Lanka has to offer flowed into our doorless tuk-tuk, and the inquisitive locals, upon seeing two foreigners driving their preferred mode of transportation, instantly opened up to us.

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Sri Lanka had long been on my list of countries to visit, yet we purposefully kept our research to a minimum, with the hopes of being pleasantly surprised at every new destination. We had known that Sri Lanka’s landscapes were diverse, but I couldn’t, and still can’t for that matter, wrap my head around how a small island in the Indian Ocean can offer so much. Beautiful, pristine beaches, rugged mountains, dense jungles, and even wildlife refuges reminiscent of Kenya’s Masai Mara. These sights, and more, were all within a few hours of each other by car, or within a day or two by tuk-tuk.

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Upon returning home, most travelers don’t start their stories with the mode of transport that they used, but tuk-tuks are another story. Our tuk-tuk was bright, racing red. The name Big Red was quickly bestowed on her. She was an absolute tank, gliding over the most decrepit roads with ease, which made us realize why the locals held tuk-tuks in such high regard. In addition, they are very gas efficient, reliable, and are relatively easy to drive.

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The experiences – unexplored tea fields, an unsolicited and unforgettable conversation with a Buddhist monk in a mountaintop temple, night fishing in dangerous waters, secluded beaches, pre-dawn hikes, and traditional stilt fishing (just to name a few) – were all thanks to Big Red. Unique travel logistics lead to unique travel experiences.

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Written on July 6th, 2018 for Clamp Magazine from a trip in early 2018. Published here on December 8th, 2020.